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Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering

Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa.

Heli skiing in Kyrgyzstan
Heli skiing in Kyrgyzstan


Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m) Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide
Climb Lenin Peak


Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7.010 m)
Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide.
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m)


Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)
Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)




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Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak. Lenin peak's range climbing


Lenin Peak Fixed Dates Guided Lenin Peak Fixed Dates Guided "Lenin peak 2014" with experienced guide. Dates: Dates: 01.07.201422.07.2014; 05.07.2014-26.07.2014; 11.08.2014-01.09.2014

price: 2160 USD

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Special offer Lenin Peak 2014 Special offer Lenin Peak 2014 Expedition to Lenin Peak with guaranteed installed high altitude tents on 5300 m, 6200 m; group equipment: rope, gas and gas stoves, cooking set; high altitude food

price: 1150 EUR

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Backcontry camp at Lenin peak Backcontry camp at Lenin peak Before hundreds of climbers from all over the world come and lay the path to the summit. Before the Camps 5300m and 6100m are overcrowded. This is the time when every step of the previous climber is not possible to find the next day. Dates: 10.06-19.06 & 20.06-29.06

price: 650 EUR

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Fixed dates expedition to Lenin Peak Fixed dates expedition to Lenin Peak 9 July to 31 July & 29 July to 20 August. With an experienced high altitude guide; Installed high altitude tents on 5300 and 6200 ; Group equipment: rope, gas and gas stoves, cooking set; High altitude food.

price: 1400 EUR

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Speed climbing to Lenin peak. Speed climbing to Lenin peak. Speed ascent to Lenin peak- III. It starts 29-Jul-14. Lenin Peak is the highest summit of Zailiysky Range. Its height is 7134 meters above sea level.

price: 585 EUR

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Expedition 3 7000+m peaks of Pamir 2014 Expedition 3 7000+m peaks of Pamir 2014 Expedition 3 7000+m peaks of Pamir 2014; Basic program Bishkek-Bishkek

price: 3100 EUR

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Lenin Peak Expedition 2014 Lenin Peak Expedition 2014 Facts of Lenin Peak. In accordance with your desire we can arrange a summit attempt expedition on any of these three routes chosen by you.

price: 740 EUR

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Guaranteed departure date expedition to Lenin Peak

Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak. Lenin peak's range climbing

Special offer Lenin Peak 2013

Backcontry camp at Lenin peak 2013

Guaranteed departure date expeditions to "Lenin peak 2014" with experienced guide


Lenin Peak - Ibn Sina Peak (7134 m.)



Note:
- Climbing to 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground.
- Your insurance should permit you to work on a height above 4200 m.


Expedition to Lenin Peak.


Lenin Peak (Ibn Sina Peak)

Ibn Sina Peak, formerly Lenin Peak (Russian: , Tajik: Qullai Lenin; renamed Ibn Sina Peak in July 2006), rises to 7,134 m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, where the Pamirs and the Tian Shan come together. They form the border between Osh Province, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Lenin Peak is the highest peak in the Trans-Alay Range (also Trans Alai), which is the northernmost range of the Pamir Mountains. To the north is the Alay Valley. Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. It was thought to be the highest point in the Pamirs until 1933, when Ismail Samani Peak (known as Stalin Peak at the time, lately renamed Communism Peak) was climbed and found to be more than 300 metres higher (7,495 m).  At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved.

History of development

An Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia belongs to the period of time between 1774-1782 . Arguably the first registered travel through the region is involuntary travel of slave Filipp Efremov (ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over Karakorum. He was the first European who has crossed the Alai Mountains.

Scientific expeditions to the Alai Mountains began since 1871, when Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko has discovered Trans-Alai (Zaalayskiy) Range and its main peak. The first geographical expedition, which came most near to a bottom of the future Lenin Peak in the early 20th century, was arguably expedition of Nikolai Leopol'dovich Korzhenevskiy.

In September 1928 three German researchers (E. Allwein, E. Schneider, K. Wien) of Soviet-German scientific expedition, made the first attempt to reach the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range, which at that time had name Kaufman Peak.

They started climbing upstream of the Saukdara river along the South slope of Trans-Alai Range. From the river head they continued climbing along the Greater Saukdara Glacier towards a saddle at an altitude 5820 m (this saddle is also known as the Krilenko Pass). On September 25, 1928 they started climbing from the saddle along the NE Ridge and at 15.30 they reached the first top of the Lenin Peak at an altitude 7127 m (23 382,55 ft.).

The title Lenin Peak for the first time has been applied to the highest point of the Trans-Alai Range in the same year (1928). When it was renamed after Lenin it was believed to be the highest point in the USSR.

On September 8, 1934 at 16:20 three members of a Soviet expedition: Kasian Chernuha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin reached the peak at an altitude 7134 m (23 405,51 ft.). The attempt lasted for four days with three camps (5700 m., 6500 m. and 7000 m.). The expedition started routing from the Achik-Tash canyon in the Alai valley. The summit attempt itself was started along the Western ice slope of the Lenin glacier. They continued climbing along North Face, then passing the rocks that later was given name Lipkin's Rocks at the end of second day reached a crest-line of the NE ridge at an altitude about 6500 m. During following day and a half they climbed along the NE Ridge and utterly exhausted reached the summit.

Three years later, in 1937 eight Soviet climbers under the direction of Lev Barkhash reached the summit by the same route. It was the third successful attempt at the time of beginning of mass political repressions in the Soviet Union. Many of most prominent Soviet climbers including Lev Barkhash were brought to trial.

Following attempts to climb Lenin Peak, could not begin until 1950, when the USSR began to recover from the Second World War. On August 14, 1950 twelve climbers (V. Aksenov, K, Zaporojchenko, Y. Izrael, V. Kovalev, A. Kormshikov, Y. Maslov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nikonov, V. Nozdryuhin, I. Rojkov) under the direction of Vladimir Racek reached the summit for the fourth time.

All three Soviet expedition including Racec's expedition of 1950 were almost of the same route via NE Ridge. See http://www.skitalets.ru/books/pik_lenina/

The route, which now is known as classical, via the Razdelnaya Peak and NW Ridge, was first routed in 1954 by the team of Soviet climbers under the direction of V. Kovalev (P. Karpov, E. Nagel, V. Narishkin, V. Nozdryuhin).

In 1960 a group of 8 Soviet climber made a successful attempt of direct climb along the North Face (15.08.1960).

As it is now, in consideration of an existing infrastructure and BC/ABC location, there are three most attractive routes from the North (as it is approximately indicated on Scheme): Lipkin's rocks route and NE Ridge; North Face classical route; Razdelnaya route and NW Ridge.

In accordance with your desire we can arrange a summit attempt expedition on any of these three routes chosen by you.

 
Lenin Peak from the Garlic Field  Lenin Peak. Hike to camp 1 (4200 m) Lenin Peak.  Lenin glacier

Expedition of classical (Razdelnaya Route and NW Ridge) Description

Base camp is situated in Achik-Tash (3600m). It is about 8 hours drive from Osh. Last section of the way (starting from Sary-Mogol village) is impassable for a car. Therefore we should walk, crossing two steep river valleys Qizil-Suu and Achik-Tash. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4200 m).

From camp 1 at 4200 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2 (5300 m). There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steepens.

The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 metres to Razdelny Pass at 6000 metres. It is here that we will make camp 3.

Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres  Lenin Peak. Camp 3 at 6000 metres Lenin Peak.  The view from camp 3 at 6000 metres

From camp 3 we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. The views from the summit at 7134, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakorum.

List of items, which will be of use:
1) Garments, footwear - a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear - a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear - ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff

Basic program: 21 days

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2. Flight to Osh, trahsfer Osh-Achik-Tash
Day 3. Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak.
Day 4. Descent to the base camp.
Day 5. Preparation day
Day 6. Climb to the camp N1. 4200 m.
Day 7. Climb to the camp N2. 5300 m.
Day 8. Climb to the camp N3. 6100 m.
Day 9. Descent to the camp N1.
Day 10. Descent to the base camp 3500 m.
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to camp N1.
Day 14. Climb to camp N2.
Day 15. Climb to camp N3.
Day 16. Climb to camp N4. 6400 m.
Day 17. Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp N3.
Day 18. Descent to the camp N1.
Day 19. Descent to the base camp. 3500 m.
Day 20. Transfer to Osh
Day 21. Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel
Note: This is our recommended itinerary, however local circumstances, weather and safety considerations may oblige the group leader to make changes, even at the very last minute.
 
Lenin Peak.  The view from camp 3 at 6000 metres  Lenin Peak.  The view from camp 3 at 6000 metres Lenin Peak. The view from the summit at 7134

Facts of Lenin Peak

* Lenin Peak was discovered by the Russian explorer A.P. Fedchenko in 1871. Its steep flanks are covered with glaciers. The first ascent was made in 1928 from the south by German alpinists included in the First Pamirs Expedition of the Academy of Sciences of the U.S.S.R. The first ascent by Soviet climbers, from the north, followed in 1934.
* Lenin Peak is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb, similar in grade to Mont Blanc or Elbrus. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over 2300m higher than Mont Blanc) so it is by no means an easy summit. The route follows a well-explored trail that includes some steep and exposed stretches on ridges. Between base camp and camp 2 is heavily glaciated and there is a small risk of avalanches. Winter mountaineering experience and use of ice axe and crampons is essential. Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. High altitude and adverse weather are the main concerns.
* In 1928 the USSR Academy of Science sponsored the systematic exploration of Pamir. Some German mountaineers who took part in the expedition tried to climb up Lenin Peak via the southern side along the Saukdara glacier, through the present-day Krilenko Pass (5,820 m) and then along the eastern ridge. In 1934 participants of Pamir training expedition of Red Army N. Chernuha, I.Lukin, V.Abalakov made an ascent on the top of Lenin Peak and it was supposed to be the frist ascent. Only 33 years later was discovered that peak was already climbed by Germans E. Allvein, K. Vin and E, Schneider on 25 o September 1928.

Mountain Safety

As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snows weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7 to 10C (45 to 50F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenin_Peak
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html
http://mirslovarei.com/content_beo/Efremov-Filipp-Sergeev-5360.html
Efremov, Filipp, Devyatiletnee stranstvovanie [Nine Years Long Travel], 1852
 
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