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Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa. Fixed dates: 1-12 Nov 2011; 3-14 Jan 2013; 16-27 Jan 2013; 1-12 Mar 2012; 1-12 May 2013.

Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m)
 Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide: 21 July to 12 August 2013
Climb Lenin Peak



Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7.010 m)
 Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide: 27 July to 20 August 2013
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m)



Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)
Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)




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Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering. Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan



  Climb Lenin Peak
Climb Lenin Peak Expedition
(7.134 m)
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m)
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition
(7.010 m)
Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)
Pobeda Peak Expedition
(7.439 m)

Contents
  1. Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa
  2. PamiroAlai, Turkestan Ridge
  3. Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing

Your guides

Ilyas TuhvatullinWe recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA team, working under the direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin, who 30.05.2004 reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face; 22.08.2007 reached the summit of K2 (Chogori) along the center of the Western face abrupt rocky bastion etc ... and what is symbolical - made the first ascent along Khan Tengri North Face Center, in two-man team, alpine style, for 8 days in 2005.

For further information and booking please e-mail us
your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru

Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa

Attention!
Fixed dates: 1-12 Nov 2011; 3-14 Jan 2013; 16-27 Jan 2013; 1-12 Mar 2013; 1-12 May 2013. Price: U$ 395

The program "1" for the beginners

1 day Arrival in "Ala-Archa" alp-camp, accomodation 2-3 people in one room. Hike for acclimatization.

2 - 4 days Acclimatization, masterclass, workshops.

5 day Ascent to the Racek hut. Snow-climbing practice. Night in the Recek hut.

6 day Ice-climbing masterclass, practice. Night in the Recek hut.

7 day Rock-climbing masterclass, practice. Descent to Ala-Archa alp-camp.

8 day Bivouac organization workshops, practice.

9 day Climb to the Komsomolec peak (1B Russian grade route), 4140.

10 day Initiation into climbers family ceremony.

11 day Reserve day on a case of bad weather.

12 day Departure to Bishkek.

Price - 395$

This price includes:
transportation Bishkek Ala-Archa - Bishkek;
workshops, masterclasses;
mountain guides;
accommodation in Ala-Archa alp-camp (on 2-3 double and triple rooms) and in Racek hut ( 10-15 pax in one room);
full board in Ala-Archa alp-camp and in Racek hut; day-pack food in days of climbing;
the medical insurance;
ecological payments;
command climbing equipment (ropes, tents, rock and ice bolts, hammers and so on);
a radio communication during climbing;
the first-aid set and the first medical aid (professional doctor)

This price does not include:
International flights;
Accommodation and food in Bishkek;
Personal climbing gears and wearing;
Meeting/seeing-off at the airport;
Gas bottles KOVEA 230 gr.

The program "2" for the advanced climbers

1 day Arrival in "Ala-Archa" alp-camp, accomodation 2-3 people in one room. Hike for acclimatization.

2 - 3 days Acclimatization, masterclass, workshops.

4 day Climb to the Komsomolec peak (1B Russian grade route), 4140.

5 day Ascent to the Racek hut. Snow-climbing practice. Night in the Recek hut.

6 day Ice-climbing masterclass, practice. Descent to Ala-Archa alp-camp.

7 day Climb 2A (Russian grade) routes (Komsomolec peak - 4140 m and the Pioneer peak 4050).

8 day Workshops, practice.

9 day Climb 2A (Russian grade) route (Morozova peak 4200).

10 day Ice-climbing masterclass, practice.

11 day Climb 2B (Russian grade) route (Morozova peak 4200).

12 day Departure to Bishkek.

Price - 395$

This price includes:
transportation Bishkek Ala-Archa - Bishkek;
workshops, masterclasses;
mountain guides;
accommodation in Ala-Archa alp-camp (on 2-3 double and triple rooms) and in Racek hut ( 10-15 pax in one room);
full board in Ala-Archa alp-camp and in Racek hut; day-pack food in days of climbing;
the medical insurance;
ecological payments;
command climbing equipment (ropes, tents, rock and ice bolts, hammers and so on);
a radio communication during climbing;
the first-aid set and the first medical aid (professional doctor)

This price does not include:
International flights;
Accommodation and food in Bishkek;
Personal climbing gears and wearing;
Meeting/seeing-off at the airport;
Gas bottles KOVEA 230 gr.

The program "3" for the experienced climbers

1 day Arrival in "Ala-Archa" alp-camp, accomodation 2-3 people in one room. Hike for acclimatization.

2 11 days Climbing activity (2A Russian grade route 1 Climb, 3A 3 climbs, 3B 2 climbs, 2B as a leader of a group one climb). Masterclass, workshops.

12 day Departure to Bishkek.

Price - 395$

This price includes:
transportation Bishkek Ala-Archa - Bishkek;
workshops, masterclasses;
mountain guides;
accommodation in Ala-Archa alp-camp (on 2-3 double and triple rooms) and in Racek hut ( 10-15 pax in one room);
full board in Ala-Archa alp-camp and in Racek hut; day-pack food in days of climbing;
the medical insurance;
ecological payments;
command climbing equipment (ropes, tents, rock and ice bolts, hammers and so on);
a radio communication during climbing;
the first-aid set and the first medical aid (professional doctor)

This price does not include:
International flights;
Accommodation and food in Bishkek;
Personal climbing gears and wearing;
Meeting/seeing-off at the airport;
Gas bottles KOVEA 230 gr.


Ala Archa Mountaineering


Key Information:

Tour Duration: 4 - 14 day(s)
Group Size: 1 - 6 people
Destination: Kyrgyzstan  
Category: Rock climbing and mountaineering
Specialty: Ice, Mountain, Rock  
Min Price: 400 Euro (EUR) per trip
Max Price: 1100 Euro (EUR) per trip
Supplier: tel. +998 98 3039846; E-mail: pagetour@ya.ru

The Ala Archa National Park is an alpine national park in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, established in 1976[1] and located approximately 40 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. The park, which includes the gorge of the Ala-Archa River and the mountains surrounding it, is a popular destination point for weekend picnicers, hikers, horse trekkers, skiers as well as mountain climbers looking for challenging ice, rock and mixed routes. The park is open year round, although the most popular season is late summer and early fall. Every May 1st, the Alpinada festival sees hundreds of people camp out in the valley and climb Peak Komsomolets.

In Kyrgyz, the archa, which gives the park its name, is a bright or many-colored juniper which the Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits. However, the archa is not supposed to be planted near the home, because it is believed gradually to sap the energy from human beings living close-by.

The park covers about 200 square kilometers, and its altitude ranges from about 1,500 meters at the entrance to a maximum of 4,895 meters at Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski, the highest peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-tau range of the Tian Shan. There are more than 20 small and large glaciers and some 50 mountain peaks within the park. Two smaller rivers, the Adygene and the Ak-Sai, originate from these glaciers' melting waters. The Adygene gorge is a beautifully wooded valley, with waterfalls, springs and abundant trout. A small reservoir on the Kargay-Bulak river was built to study the Amu Darya trout. Other wildlife includes the very rare snow leopard (in Kyrgyz: "ilbirs") on the alpine meadows and snowfields above 2,500 m elevation, wild goats, roe deer and marmots.

There is a nominal fee for entering the park. Past the gate the road continues 12 km to a small collection of buildings, including one newly renovated lodge. At the end of the road, up a trail to the left (East), lies the Ak-Sai Glacier, where remains of a Soviet climbing base indicate the high quality mountaineering within the park. The region's most famous peaks rise from the Ak-Sai glacier, including Korona (4860m) and Free Korea (4740m). To the west of Ala Archa Valley is a trail to the Adygene valley where a climbers' cemetery is located. A third main trail continues down the center of the Ala-Archa valley for 10 km to an old, now abandoned, ski area and numerous other 4000m peaks.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ala_Archa_National_Park

Itinerary

- 1 Day Hiking to Ratsek or Korona hut (depends on how do you feel)
- 2 Day Hiking to Korona hut or acclimatisation (if we reach it day before). Ice climbing and preparation for the route.
- 3 Day Climbing the routee
- 4 Day Back to Bishkek

Note: If you choose more routes we include day of rest before the climbing and day of climbing the route.

In Ala-Archa we offer following routes:
Svobodnaya (Free) (6510 m) peak. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. North face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group. South face
Korona (Crown) (4810 m) group from West side
1 st tower of Korona (Crown) - detailed

Cost Includes::
- Transport
- Food
- Porters assistance
- Guide salary

Pamiro-Alay Trekking, PamiroAlai, Turkestan Ridge

We offer simple trekking via Turkestansky Range located in one of the most beautiful region of Pamir-Alai. The spectacular summits with sides converging at an altitude of 5000m sharp peaks likewise gigantic dice, adorn the wide ridge of watershed of Aksu and Karavshin gorges.

The specialty of the mountains is comfortably warm weather, magnificent mixed forest and fast rivers headily running to sunny Fergana Valley.

Experts and professional climbers compare the region with Patagonia which is located in South America on the border of Argentina and Chili. But it is only outward similarity. "Asian Patagonia", though, it looks like  South American "sister", is quite different from it. The climate is more clement and the valleys are more beautiful. Green warm valleys cover the foothills of unbelievably steep marble peaks.   

Trekking area Map

Programme (variant #1 with a beginning in Bishkek):

Day 1. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek, transfer to the hotel. Sightseeing of Bishkek after lunch.

Day 2. Air flight Bishkek - Batken and transfer to Ozgurush meeting the trekking team. Accommodation in tents camp at an altitude of 1389m in apricot grove.    

Day 3. Breakfast. Trek along Ak-Mechit River by a good path about 12km. Camping in archa forest at an altitude of 2800m.

Day 4. Excursion to the valley of Aklsu Glacier. Observation of peaks - Aksu (5355m), Iskander, Admiralteets and others. Lunch on the Glacier, coming back to the camp.

Day 5. Moving towards Ak-Tube Pass (about 6-7 km). Crossing the pass (4390m), hauling down to Orto-Chashma Valley (about 5km). Camping in forest at an altitude of 3000m.

Day 6. Trekking towards Karasu Pass 7km. Crossing the pass (3720), down to Karasu Valley along the very picturesque canyon about 5km from the pass to camp place. From the camp we will see the Pyramidalny Peak (5509m) - one of the most beautiful peaks of the area.

Day 7. Walk along Karasu Canyon, back to the camp.     

Day 8. Local walk to Ak-Suu River Valley, the gorge is predominated by its snow peaks. Back to the camp.

Day 9. Crossing the Karavshin River and further passage about 7km down along the river. Camping not far from pastures of local shepherds at an altitude of 1796m. Getting acquaint with way of life of shepherds. Meeting a car.    

Day 10. Transfer to Osh city. Accomodationin in the hotel. City tour around Osh, which is one of the ancient cities of Central Asia. Its basaar is known for variety and splendour of goods. In the city center there is a sacred Suleiman-Too mountain, which affords fantastic views of Fergana valley and Pamir ranges.

Day 11. Flight to Bishkek in the afternoon. Accomodation in the hotel.

Day 12. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Programme (variant #2 with a beginning in Tashkent):

Day 1   Arrival in Tashkent

Day 2   Transfer by bus from Tashkent to Uzgarish (250 km, 8 h). Camp at the Ak-Mechet river. Camp (1500 m).

Day 3   We travel along mountain road to the confluence of Aksu and Karasu rivers (10 km. 5 h). The mountain slopes are covered with fir forests. Panoramic views of the peaks Aksu and Iskander open up. Camp (2600 m).

Day 4   Acclimatization. Circuit walking to the area of the Aksu peak (5355 m), the highest peak and a favorite place of trekkers and climbers. The mountain gives the impression of absolute inaccessibility. An excellent place to make photos. The pyramid-shaped summit has on its northern face a vertical cliff wall of 1.5 kilometers, to the left from the summits protrudes the beautiful two-headed Iskander peak (5163 m). The views of the adjacent mountains take our breath away. It-s a place for ideal photos. We continue by a good path to the right bank of the Aksu river and ascend to the moraine of the Aksu glacier via heaps of stones. En route we visit the yurts of shepherds and to know their way of life.

Day 5   Crossing of the Uryam pass (3760 m, 8 km, 5 h). The pass starts from the river confluence and goes through slopes covered with conifer trees. We gain a complete panoramic view of the summit with the romantic name "Parus". Some twenty minutes after the start of the descent we reach a good place on the slope, from where we enjoy an exciting view of the whole Uryam river. Camp on the riverbank.

Day 6   Daily round trip up the Uryam river to the glacier of the same name. Good pass, easy day (8 km,5 h).

Day 7   Descent along the Uryam river till the confluence with the Laylak-Mazar river. The final section of the way goes in a narrow canyon (9 km, 4 h).

Day 8   Up the Laylak-Mazar river to the Sabakh canyon (7 km, 3,5 h).

Day 9   Daily trip to the Sabakh glacier (12 km, 6 h). A good path leads to a small moraine of the glacier with dramatic views over the great walls of the Sabakh peak (5282 m).

Day 10 The last yet the most challenging day of the trek. Descent along the Laylak-Mazar river to the Uzgarish village (15 km, 7 h). We go by a path that turns into an old road. We visit the houses in Uzgarish and talk to the locals. Camp near the village (1200 m). Farewell party, bonfire, songs.

Day 11 Transfer to Tashkent (290 km, 8 h).

Day 12 Departure from Tashkent.


Second Variant Trek Price Per Person

Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5
Individual: US$ 660
2 Pax: US$ 358
3, 7, 12 Pax: US$ 264
4-5 Pax: US$ 231
6 Pax: US$ 303
8-10 Pax: US$ 231
11 Pax: US$ 286
Transportation Tashkent-Uzgarish-Tashkent isn't Included; Personal Equipment isn't Included. Mountain guide service - included. Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5 maximum limit. The rent of the tents is included for all period of expedition. Food, kitchen and climbing gears - included.
Porter service is available for an additional payment ($20/day).
The price does not include: visa/registration costs in Kyrgyzstan, personal travel insurance; personal equipment, alcohol, personal expenses.  

 

PamiroAlai

PamiroAlai

Turkestan Ridge

Turkestan Ridge

Pamiro-Alay

Pamiro-Alay


Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing


The Pamir Alai mountain range is a paradise for alpinists. An entire constellation of grandiose granite peaks juts from a narrow 20-kilometer strip of the Turkestan ridge. Every summer, outstanding mountain climbers gather there. On the area's menu, there are rock formations for every taste. The north face Ak-Su Peak is delicacy for the gourmet: over 1500 meters of irreproachable granite. To feel the grandeur and power of this mountain, one needs to come to its base - or, even better, experience it on any of the 13 established routes. Until the winter season of 1998-'99, however, no one had succeeded in going to the top of Ak-Su in winter.

ClimberCa has have every reason to say that "Asian Patagonia" (Kyrgyz Part of Turkestan Ridge of Pamir Alai) is the familiar area for us. And even more, Ilyas Tuhvatullin (Director of ClimberCA) is one of best specialists on this region. As early as 1998 he made the first WINTER ascent on Ak-Su Peak 5217 m. (the Cold Corner route (6A, 1860m) on the north face of Ak-Su Peak, December 12-23, Pavel Chabaline, Alexander Abramov, Ilyas Tukhvatullin). Therefore we are ready to discuss any proposal of rock climbing in "Asian Patagonia", including Climbing Partnership.

Note: Significant discount
under the ClimberCA sponsorship is available if you support our Climbing Partners Program at your expense.
Interested? Then contact us for more information ...
your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru


Thank you for your interest and, please, find related items adjoined for your consideration - Map and routes of the region of Pamir Alay, called "Asian Patagonia".
MAP of Aksu, Asan-Usen, Sabakh regions

Aksu region
  • Aksu (5217 m) peak. North face. Routes
  • Aksu -Admiralteets peaks panorama. Routes
  • "Pillar" of Admiralteets peak. Routes
  • A. Block (5239 m) peak. North face. Routes
  • A.Block peak. West face. Routes
  • Petrogradets (5163 m) - Iskander (5129 m) peak. Routes
  • "Pillar" of Iskander peak. Routes
  • Small Iskander peak. Routes

    Asan-Usen regions
    - Photos
  • Common panorama Asan - 4810 - Usen - 1000 letia - Routes
  • Asan (4230 m) peak. North West face. - Routes
  • Peak 4810 (4810 m). North West face. - Routes

  •  
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    Tel. +99898 303 9846, +99890 188 61 28, +99890 352 7483 - e-mail: pagetour@ya.ru

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