Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering. Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan

Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m)

Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7.010 m)

Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

Contents Lenin Peak Expedition Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition Pobeda Peak Expedition Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa Pamiro–Alai, Turkestan Ridge Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay. Experienced Technical Climbing

Ibn Sina Lenin Peak routes 1662x602. 707 kb

Lenin Peak Expedition

Expedition of classical (Razdelnaya Route and NW Ridge) Description

Itinerary

Note: This is our recommended itinerary, however local circumstances, weather and safety considerations may oblige the group leader to make changes, even at the very last minute.

Accommodation and food

Your guides
 

Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7,010 m)

Khan Tengri (Uighur, translated as "Lord of the spirits", or "Lord of the sky"; or Turkic translated as "Ruler of Skies", "Ruler Tengri") is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is 6,995 m (22,949 ft), but its glacial cap rises to 7,010 m (22,999 ft). For this reason, in mountaineering circles, including for the Soviet Snow Leopard award criteria, it is considered a 7000-metre peak. It is also known as Khan Tangiri Shyngy, Kan-Too Chokusu, Pik Khan-Tengry, and Hantengri Feng.

Khan Tengri is the second-highest mountain in the Tian Shan, surpassed only by Jengish Chokusu (formerly known as Peak Pobeda) (7,439 m). Khan Tengri is the highest point in Kazakhstan and the third-highest peak in Kyrgyzstan, after the Pobeda Peak (7,439 m) and the Lenin Peak (7,134 m). It is also the world's most northern 7000 m peak, notable because peaks of high latitude have a shorter climbing season, generally more severe weather and thinner air.

Khan-Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 camps will be used to climb Khan-Tengri.

Route description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snowcaves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepens. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snowcaves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Itinerary

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.

Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)

It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth". Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.

Route description

Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.

Itinerary

Duration: 27 days
Best time: 20, July – 25, August

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp.The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.

Your guides
 

Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa

Ala Archa Mountaineering

The Ala Archa National Park is an alpine national park in the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan, established in 1976[1] and located approximately 40 km south of the capital city of Bishkek. The park, which includes the gorge of the Ala-Archa River and the mountains surrounding it, is a popular destination point for weekend picnicers, hikers, horse trekkers, skiers as well as mountain climbers looking for challenging ice, rock and mixed routes. The park is open year round, although the most popular season is late summer and early fall. Every May 1st, the Alpinada festival sees hundreds of people camp out in the valley and climb Peak Komsomolets.

In Kyrgyz, the archa, which gives the park its name, is a bright or many-colored juniper which the Kyrgyz people have traditionally held in special esteem, using smoke from its burning wood to chase away evil spirits. However, the archa is not supposed to be planted near the home, because it is believed gradually to sap the energy from human beings living close-by.

The park covers about 200 square kilometers, and its altitude ranges from about 1,500 meters at the entrance to a maximum of 4,895 meters at Peak Semenova Tian-Shanski, the highest peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-tau range of the Tian Shan. There are more than 20 small and large glaciers and some 50 mountain peaks within the park. Two smaller rivers, the Adygene and the Ak-Sai, originate from these glaciers' melting waters. The Adygene gorge is a beautifully wooded valley, with waterfalls, springs and abundant trout. A small reservoir on the Kargay-Bulak river was built to study the Amu Darya trout. Other wildlife includes the very rare snow leopard (in Kyrgyz: "ilbirs") on the alpine meadows and snowfields above 2,500 m elevation, wild goats, roe deer and marmots.

There is a nominal fee for entering the park. Past the gate the road continues 12 km to a small collection of buildings, including one newly renovated lodge. At the end of the road, up a trail to the left (East), lies the Ak-Sai Glacier, where remains of a Soviet climbing base indicate the high quality mountaineering within the park. The region's most famous peaks rise from the Ak-Sai glacier, including Korona (4860m) and Free Korea (4740m). To the west of Ala Archa Valley is a trail to the Adygene valley where a climbers' cemetery is located. A third main trail continues down the center of the Ala-Archa valley for 10 km to an old, now abandoned, ski area and numerous other 4000m peaks.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ala_Archa_National_Park

Itinerary

Cost Includes:
- Transport
- Food
- Porters assistance
- Guide salary

Pamiro-Alay Trekking, Pamiro–Alai, Turkestan Ridge
 

We offer simple trekking via Turkestansky Range located in one of the most beautiful region of Pamir-Alai. The spectacular summits with sides converging at an altitude of 5000m sharp peaks likewise gigantic dice, adorn the wide ridge of watershed of Aksu and Karavshin gorges. The specialty of the mountains is comfortably warm weather, magnificent mixed forest and fast rivers headily running to sunny Fergana Valley. Experts and professional climbers compare the region with Patagonia which is located in South America on the border of Argentina and Chili. But it is only outward similarity. "Asian Patagonia", though, it looks like  South American "sister", is quite different from it. The climate is more clement and the valleys are more beautiful. Green warm valleys cover the foothills of unbelievably steep marble peaks.

Trekking area Map

Programme (variant #1 with a beginning in Bishkek):

Day 1. Meeting at the airport of Bishkek, transfer to the hotel. Sightseeing of Bishkek after lunch.

Day 2. Air flight Bishkek - Batken and transfer to Ozgurush meeting the trekking team. Accommodation in tents camp at an altitude of 1389m in apricot grove.    

Day 3. Breakfast. Trek along Ak-Mechit River by a good path about 12km. Camping in archa forest at an altitude of 2800m.

Day 4. Excursion to the valley of Aklsu Glacier. Observation of peaks - Aksu (5355m), Iskander, Admiralteets and others. Lunch on the Glacier, coming back to the camp.

Day 5. Moving towards Ak-Tube Pass (about 6-7 km). Crossing the pass (4390m), hauling down to Orto-Chashma Valley (about 5km). Camping in forest at an altitude of 3000m.

Day 6. Trekking towards Karasu Pass 7km. Crossing the pass (3720), down to Karasu Valley along the very picturesque canyon about 5km from the pass to camp place. From the camp we will see the Pyramidalny Peak (5509m) - one of the most beautiful peaks of the area.

Day 7. Walk along Karasu Canyon, back to the camp.     

Day 8. Local walk to Ak-Suu River Valley, the gorge is predominated by its snow peaks. Back to the camp.

Day 9. Crossing the Karavshin River and further passage about 7km down along the river. Camping not far from pastures of local shepherds at an altitude of 1796m. Getting acquaint with way of life of shepherds. Meeting a car.    

Day 10. Transfer to Osh city. Accomodationin in the hotel. City tour around Osh, which is one of the ancient cities of Central Asia. Its basaar is known for variety and splendour of goods. In the city center there is a sacred Suleiman-Too mountain, which affords fantastic views of Fergana valley and Pamir ranges.

Day 11. Flight to Bishkek in the afternoon. Accomodation in the hotel.

Day 12. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

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Programme (variant #2 with a beginning in Tashkent):

Day 1   Arrival in Tashkent
 

Day 2   Transfer by bus from Tashkent to Uzgarish (250 km, 8 h). Camp at the Ak-Mechet river. Camp (1500 m).
 

Day 3   We travel along mountain road to the confluence of Aksu and Karasu rivers (10 km. 5 h). The mountain slopes are covered with fir forests. Panoramic views of the peaks Aksu and Iskander open up. Camp (2600 m).
 

Day 4   Acclimatization. Circuit walking to the area of the Aksu peak (5355 m), the highest peak and a favorite place of trekkers and climbers. The mountain gives the impression of absolute inaccessibility. An excellent place to make photos. The pyramid-shaped summit has on its northern face a vertical cliff wall of 1.5 kilometers, to the left from the summits protrudes the beautiful two-headed Iskander peak (5163 m). The views of the adjacent mountains take our breath away. It-s a place for ideal photos. We continue by a good path to the right bank of the Aksu river and ascend to the moraine of the Aksu glacier via heaps of stones. En route we visit the yurts of shepherds and to know their way of life.
 

Day 5   Crossing of the Uryam pass (3760 m, 8 km, 5 h). The pass starts from the river confluence and goes through slopes covered with conifer trees. We gain a complete panoramic view of the summit with the romantic name "Parus". Some twenty minutes after the start of the descent we reach a good place on the slope, from where we enjoy an exciting view of the whole Uryam river. Camp on the riverbank.
 

Day 6   Daily round trip up the Uryam river to the glacier of the same name. Good pass, easy day (8 km,5 h).
 

Day 7   Descent along the Uryam river till the confluence with the Laylak-Mazar river. The final section of the way goes in a narrow canyon (9 km, 4 h).
 

Day 8   Up the Laylak-Mazar river to the Sabakh canyon (7 km, 3,5 h).
 

Day 9   Daily trip to the Sabakh glacier (12 km, 6 h). A good path leads to a small moraine of the glacier with dramatic views over the great walls of the Sabakh peak (5282 m).
 

Day 10 The last yet the most challenging day of the trek. Descent along the Laylak-Mazar river to the Uzgarish village (15 km, 7 h). We go by a path that turns into an old road. We visit the houses in Uzgarish and talk to the locals. Camp near the village (1200 m). Farewell party, bonfire, songs.
 

Day 11 Transfer to Tashkent (290 km, 8 h).
 

Day 12 Departure from Tashkent.

Second Variant Trek Price Per Person
 

Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5 Individual: US$ 660 2 Pax: US$ 358 3, 7, 12 Pax: US$ 264 4-5 Pax: US$ 231 6 Pax: US$ 303 8-10 Pax: US$ 231 11 Pax: US$ 286

Transportation Tashkent-Uzgarish-Tashkent isn't Included; Personal Equipment isn't Included. Mountain guide service - included. Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5 maximum limit. The rent of the tents is included for all period of expedition. Food, kitchen and climbing gears - included. Porter service is available for an additional payment ($20/day). The price does not include: visa/registration costs in Kyrgyzstan, personal travel insurance; personal equipment, alcohol, personal expenses.

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