Muztagh Ata 7545M Expedition 2010
Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata (Turkic 'ice-mountain-father'), is the second highest (7546 meters) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamir. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.
Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir", and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.
The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.
The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.
Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005.
The youngest person to climb Mustagh Ata is Marius Bergsmark Bjertness. He is from Norway and was at the summit 19th of July 2005 at an age of 15 years, 10 months and 14 days (born 6th of September 1989).
| Day |
Date |
Sketch itinerary |
Hotel/Camp |
| 01 |
|
Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel afternoon city tour |
Hotel |
| 02 |
|
Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12hrs |
Hotel |
| 03 |
|
Drive to Sost 7-8hrs |
Hotel |
| 04 |
|
Drive to Tashkurgan via Khunjreab Pass 4733m |
Hotel |
| 05 |
|
Drive to Karakul Lake 3,600m |
Camp |
| 06 |
|
Trek to Muztagh Ata base camp 4450m |
Camp |
| 12/23 |
|
17 days for climbing |
Camp |
| 24 |
|
Trek down to Karakul Lake and drive to Kashgar |
Hotel |
| 25 |
|
Visit Sunday market |
Hotel |
| 26 |
|
Drive to Sost via Khunjreab Pass. After custom formalities continue
drive to Karimabad |
Hotel |
| 27 |
|
Morning visit Baltit Bazaar afternoon excursion to Duiker valley |
Hotel |
| 28 |
|
Drive to Besham 9-10hrs |
Hotel |
| 29 |
|
Drive to Islamabad 5-6hs |
Hotel |
| 30 |
|
Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight |
|
Land cost for 30 days Muztagh Ata Expedition 2010
Pax Prices based sharing twin room & tent
07/08 Pax 2755 U$ per person
09/10 Pax 2460 U$ par person
11/12 Pax 2135 U$ par person
Significant discount under the ClimberCA sponsorship is available if you support our Climbing Partners Program at your expense.
Interested? Then contact us for more information ...
your@climberca.com or
pagetour@ya.ru
Services included in given cost
Climbing permit and all required formalities
2 high altitude porter /Sherpas
Transport: Pick and drop airport /Hotel
Air-conditioned mini bus from Islamabad, Sost, Tashkorgan, Karakul Lake, Kashgar,
back to Tashkorgan
Hotels
Islamabad: Regency hotel or guesthouse (bed & break fast)
Chilas: Panorama hotel or Midway Shangrila (break fast, lunch, dinner)
Karimabad: Hunza Embassy or HGP Guesthouse (break fast, lunch, dinner)
Tashkorgan Pamir Hotel (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
Karakul Lake Yurt (break, lunch, dinner)
Kashgar Seman Hotel (Break fast, lunch, dinner)
Local English speaking guide throughout the tour
Full salary, transport, accommodation, food, equipment and insurance for all
local staff (guide, cook, liaison
Officer and all other helpers)
Electric Generator at base camp
All transfers as per itinerary in private vehicles
All necessary entrance and national park fees
All accommodation and food as per itinerary, that means on full board basis
during whole travel and in base
Camp for unto 17 days
Full bas camp services including kitchen tent, mess tent, sleeping tents +
mattresses for all members and staff
(1 double tent per 2 members), complete kitchen equipment, chairs, tables,
kerosene
Luggage transport all the way for unto 30 kg per person
Support in all required paperwork (visa support, entrance papers, custom + cargo
handling)'
ClimberCA Guides / Climbing Partners Program
 The ClimberCA Mountain Guides team, working under the direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin,
who 30.05.2004 reached the summit of
Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face; 22.08.2007 reached the summit of
K2 (Chogori) along the center of the Western face – abrupt rocky bastion etc
...
Significant discount under the ClimberCA sponsorship is available if you support our Climbing Partners Program at your expense.
Interested? Then contact us for more information ...
your@climberca.com or
pagetour@ya.ru
Services not included in given cost
International flight
Hotel meals in Islamabad (lunch & dinner)
Single supplement 150 U$ per single
Personal gear and climbing equipment
Helicopter Rescue in case of use for rescue
Airport taxes-cargo, visa costs and custom clearance fee
High altitude porter, High altitude food and no any services or equipment above
base camp
Transfers to and from airports for participants making individual air
arrangements
Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour
Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone, fax, email charges,
liquor or soft drinks,
Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal
nature
Source:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muztagh_Ata
|
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