Rock climbing, Bouldering, Free climbing, Top roping, Ice
climbing, Mixed climbing, In aid climbing
Rock climbing -
Ascending cliffs for sport or recreation. It often involves ice climbing.
Forms of rock climbing applicable in Uzbekistan Mountains
Rock climbing in Uzbekistan Mountains is practiced on cliffs
with a wide range of heights. Areas may be relatively small crags of rock, large
canyon sidewalls, or immense mountain faces. Granite, limestone, sandstone,
metamorphosed schist, and gneiss are the five most popular rock types for
climbing.
Please note that
We can offer you very interesting experience of rock climbing in the Chimgan mountains. There are routes of 1B-4B Russian grade. We can provide you with
official certificate of successful climbing. We provide gears and can guarantee your success.
The suggested route is a traverse of three peaks (3A by Russian grade): the Greater Chimgan
(3309 m), the Kichkina (2879 m) and the Aukashka (3099 m). It will take 4-5 days.
Magnificent landscapes and challenge rock climbing. You can see a picture of proposed route below.
Bouldering, which means practicing difficult climbing moves on large
boulders or small outcroppings of rock that are only several feet above the
ground. Bouldering is relatively safe because climbers can jump back onto solid
ground at any moment. Difficult and strenuous movements can therefore be
rehearsed without the use of ropes and hardware.
Top-roping. When ascending cliffs that are less than 50 m (164 ft) high,
climbers use a
technique called top-roping. On a top-rope belay, the climber is anchored
from above, so he or she is protected against a serious fall.
Rock climbers generally use a standard 50-m or 60-m rope. Rock climbs
higher than 60 m thus require more than one pitch, or rope length, to be scaled;
this type of climbing is termed
multipitch or continuous climbing.
Specific types of rock climbing movements include friction
climbing (moving up smooth, relatively low-angled rock slabs);
face climbing (holding onto flakes, knobs and edges to ascend a sheer
wall);
crack climbing (jamming fingers, hands, arms, legs, feet, and toes into
fissures in the rock); and
overhang climbing (expending quick, calculated bursts of energy and
muscle to swing past overhangs).
There are two main types of rock climbing: free climbing
and
aid climbing. In its most basic form, a free climb is the unsupported
ascent of a cliff face. Climbers use their fingers to grip flakes, edges, and
cracks in the surface, while sticky rubber-soled shoes give support. The climber
employs rope or other forms of protection, but only as a precaution to prevent a
serious fall. The pieces of protection are never used to rest on, or for
advancement.
As soon as a climber uses equipment for support, he or she is no longer free
climbing. The climber will then descend again to the last resting point
where no support was used and reclimb the problematic section.
In aid climbing (also known as artificial climbing),
climbers ascend pitches while using rope and hardware to support their body
weight.
Aid climbers also use a number of tools, including pulleys to move gear
up the rock wall and étriers, or slings, to rest in. On climbs that require two
or more days, climbers also use a portaledge. This easy-to-assemble device made
of poles and shock-cords forms a rigid nylon floor and waterproof tent. The
portaledge hangs from anchors placed in the rock wall and enables climbers to
sleep and rest in a comfortable position, even though they may be hundreds or
thousands of feet off the ground.
Ice climbing: Ascending ice or hard snow formations
using special equipment designed for the purpose, usually ice axes and crampons.
Protective equipment is similar to rock climbing, although protective devices
are different (ice screws, snow wedges).
Climbers encounter two natural forms of ice: alpine ice and water ice.
Mountaineers and alpinists look out for alpine ice, while ice climbers
deliberately search for water ice. Alpine ice is composed of large sheets of
snow on mountainsides that over time have melted and refrozen. Water ice occurs
at lower altitudes on frozen waterfalls, where it can take the shape of toothy
icicles, steep curtains and pillars, free-standing columns, and thin veneers
over rock. Whereas some alpine climbers regard ice as an obstacle to be overcome
in the course of making a longer ascent, ice climbers seek out ice to pit
themselves against its verticality and physical difficulty. Ice climbs are
therefore shorter than alpine ascents, but they can be more taxing.
Mixed climbing a combination of ice and rock climbing. Often involving
specialized ice climbing slippers and specialized ice tools.
Note: You can request us to prepare
a route for you, which include any kind of rock climbing listed above.
The
Chimgan Mountains are invariably attractive
for mountaineers. The wide variety of Chimgan and its surroundings allows the
activity in all kinds of mountaineering and landscape tourism. Mountains
(Small and Greater Chimgan Peaks - 3,309 m) of Chatkal range, plateaus, the
Black Waterfall (40 m) at the lower part of
Greater Chimgan Peak,
Gulkam and
Novotasha waterfalls, attract a lot of tourists from Uzbekistan and abroad.
Another attractive place for mountaineering
is situated on Ugam ridge and on the southern; slopes of the
Karjantau ridge of
the Western Tyan-Shan system.
There are following natural sites, which
are of interest of mountaineers in area of Ugam & Karjantau ridges:
• Peak Mingbulak (2,628 m) - the highest peak of the Karjantau ridge.
• Loquacious cave is located on
plateau Ghiza, 20 km from
village Humsan, in a funnel-shaped hollow. On the
bottom of the hollow, in the exposure of grey limestone, there is a 1x1 m
rectangular aperture transforming to a 1.5 m high sloping tunnel. Its floor is covered with lumps, ceiling being arcaded. This tunnel is 20 m long and leads to the inner larger part of the cave. A ladder is needed in order to proceed into
the cave as there is a 6 m high prominence. Then the floor levels out, height
reaching 20-30 m. The cave is so named due to a streamlet flowing through it.
• Arkutsay – exposure of loess
stratum. The site is 3 km west of Humsan, on the right bank of the Ugam River. Section of the formation represents the wall of a small landslide breakaway and
is a stratum of interstratifying loess-like loams of Quaternary and fossil
soils horizons. The section is unique as it exposes more than 80 m thick deposition of rocks.
• Kyrk-Kokyl waterfall (in Uzbek “Kyrk-Kokyl”
means 40 plaits) – pictorial waterfall at Pustonlyk – confluent of Ugam River, 9 km from Humsan village.
O’zbekiston
Respublikasi 100007 Toshkent shahar Hamza tumani S. Mashhadiy ko’chasi 118-uy
Tel. +99898 3039846, +99897 4042619, +99897 1569169 - e-mail: pagetour@ya.ru
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