Muztagh Ata 7546 m Expedition 2013

Photo appreciation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Muztagh_Ata_Xinjiang_China.jpg

Guaranteed departure date expedition "Muztagh Ata peak 2013" with experienced tour leader!
Dates: 02.07.2012 - 26.07.2012; 23.07.2012 - 16.08.2012; 30.07.2012 – 23.08.2012.  

Фиксированные программы Пик Муздаг-Ата (7546 m). 2013
See also: Восхождении на пик Музтаг-Ата (7546 м)
and Muztagh-Ata Peak Expedition from Islamabad 2013

Program: Bishkek - Bishkek (you may join in Kashgar)

Duration: 25 days

Location: Xinjiang, China, Asia

Group: from 10 people

Cost: 1800 Euro/person 

Route: Bishkek – Naryn – Torugart pass (Chinese border) – Kashgar – Subashi – Base camp of Muztagh Ata peak – climbing – Kashgar – Torugart pass – Naryn - Bishkek

Itinerary of Muztagh-Ata Peak Expedition from Torugard pass - CE1 – (Ice-Mountain-Father)

The price includes:

• Permit Fee;
• Complete cost of Liaison Officer
• Entrance, Govt. taxes & insurance of local staff
• Salary, food & equipment of local staff during expedition
• Transportation: Bishkek - Naryn - Torugart - Kashgar - Subashi and back;
• Hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Kashgar based on sharing twin room with full board (breakfast, lunch & dinner) according to the program. In Naryn accommodation will be provided in a guest house or Yurt camp. 
• Full board during trekking & at the Base Camp
• Porters and Camels from Subashi to Base camp & return to Subashi.
• Guide services to assist the expedition but not a high altitude guide
• Complete kitchen equipment incl. kitchen tent, mess tent, tables, stools, a mess kit, gas stoves and a cooking set and etc.
• Sleeping tents in base camp (one tent shared by two people)
• Official visa invitation if required

The price does not include:

• Visa
• All changes during the program (extra transfers, extra days in towns or base camp)
• Equipment over the Base camp (high altitude tents, high altitude food)
• Porters over the Base camp
• Single supplement is 75 Euro per person
• Excursions, which are not listed
• Extra meals and alcoholic drinks
• Extra days in Bishkek or Kashgar, which are not included in the program are 35 Euro per person for day in TWN room and 60 Euro for day in SGL room (accommodation and full board)
• Personal guide for ascending is 2000 EURO
• Personal equipment (sleeping bags, shoes, snowshoes, and etc)

Please note: In case if tourists have decided to finish their expedition earlier, they don’t get back payment for unused days in Base Camp. They will have to pay additionally for transfer from Base camp to Bishkek, accommodation and meal in the cities.

Please note: The program will take place only in case if group is completed of 10 people, if there is not enough participants, organizers have a right to cancel the expedition or shift to the other dates.

Necessary documents:

• International passport (valid for more than 6 months till end of expedition)
• “Alpine” medical insurance
• Visas (in case of visa support, please request in our agency)

Terms of accommodation:

In Bishkek – “Asia Mountains” hotel or similar, twin-bedded room accommodation.

In Naryn – guest house, rooms for 2-3 persons or yurt camp(1 yurt for 2-4 persons).

In Kashgar – 3* hotel, twin rooms.

In Subashi village – yurts (1yurt for 8 persons).

In Base camp – twin tents.

Medicine:

It is an obligation to have a climbing insurance in case of any accident.

Tour leader will have a first aid kit, but you are strongly recommended to bring your own personal aid kit. One month before expedition starts, we recommend you to start taking vitamins.

Recommended equipment:

• High-altitude tent
• Cooking set
• Crampons (ex.Grivel G12)
• Back pack  (40-50 lt)
• Harness – better Petzl or Black Diamond with wide lower straps
• Safety system
• Carabiner with clutch – 3-4 pieces
• Jumar
• Telescopic trekking sticks
• Thermos for hot tea
• Release device –“eight” type
• Ice axe
• Snowshoes or skis for ski tour
• Helmet lamp
• Camera
• Video camera and accessories
• Storage battery

List of recommended clothes:

• Trekking shoes
• Plastic mountaineering boots
• Downy jacket and pants (better snow suit)
• Gore-Tex jacket with big hood
• Gore-Tex pants
• Wind block jacket
• Wind block pants
• Polartex jacket-100 – 2
• Thermo underwear – 2 kits
• Personal underwear
• Polartex gloves – 2 pairs
• Mittens – 2 pairs
• Warm woolen socks – 4-5 pieces
• Balaclava
• Warm hat
• Face wind block mask
• UV glasses
• Ski glasses (preferable)
• Gaiters

 Muztagh Ata Kalaksong, Koskulak peak 6849 from the west (photo by Mashenin, August 2005)

ClimberCA Guides / Climbing Partners Program

Muztagh Ata 7546m

Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata (Turkic 'ice-mountain-father'), is the second highest (7546 meters) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamir. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.

Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir", and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.

The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin made the first recorded attempt to climb Muztagh Ata, in 1894. Additional attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman who came very close to the summit but were turned back due to cold and deep snow.

The first ascent of the peak was in 1956 by a large party of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the standard route.

Since the first ascent, many ascents of Muztagh Ata have been made. In 1980, a party led by Ned Gillette made a ski ascent/descent of the standard route, the first ski ascent of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much harder south-east ridge was made in 2000, and a secondary route at the west side of the mountain was first climbed in the summer of 2005.

The youngest person to climb Mustagh Ata is Marius Bergsmark Bjertness. He is from Norway and was at the summit 19th of July 2005 at an age of 15 years, 10 months and 14 days (born 6th of September 1989).

Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muztagh_Ata
http://www.turclubmai.ru/heading/papers/1147/
http://www.turclubmai.ru/heading/papers/1147/0_f06_1.jpg