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Uzbekistan Mountaineering

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Tien-Shan Trekking (Chimgan, Pulathan)

West Tien-Shan




Kyrgyzstan Mountaineering

Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa.

Heli skiing in Kyrgyzstan
Heli skiing in Kyrgyzstan


Climb Lenin Peak Expedition (7.134 m) Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide
Climb Lenin Peak


Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7.010 m)
Guaranteed departure date expedition with an experienced mountaineering guide.
Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7010 m)


Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)
Pobeda Peak Expedition (7.439 m)




Tajikistan Mountaineering


China Mountaineering


Pakistan Mountaineering & fixed data expeditions

K-2 (8611-M)
Nanga Parbat (8126)
Spantik (7027)
Broad Peak (8047)
Gasherbrum-II (8035)
Muztagh-Ata Peak (7546) Expedition from Islamabad
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Nepal Mountaineering




Uzbekistan

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Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks. Climbing Up / Ascending Mountains


Alpine climbing, Rock climbing, Free climbing, Top roping, Ice climbing, Mixed climbing, Scrambling



Alpine climbing (Mountaineering) - Ascending mountains for sport or recreation. It often involves rock and/or ice climbing.


Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks  Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks

Uzbekistan mountains


The mountains of Uzbekistan enter in structure of Tyan-Shan and Alay mountain systems. On territory turn the western spurs of Tyan-Shan and Gissar-Alay mountain system. To south and west they gradually lower and turn to plains.

Internal (tectonic) power of Earth formed folds grown the powerful ranges of mountains.

The mountains and foothills with brook relief, located in east and south-east part of Uzbekistan, where they unite with powerful mountain deep brook massive on territory of Kirgizya and Tadjikistan. Mainly this Ugam, Pskem, Chatkal, Kuramin ranges and their western and south-western spurs, concerning to Western Tyan-Shan system and Turkestan, Zerafshan and Gissar ranges with their continuous on south-western - Babatag and Kugintangtau ranges, concerning to Gissar-Alay system.

Entering on territory of Uzbekistan its spurs formed radiating bundle of mountain chains, constantly less in north-western and south-western directions. The character example is Karjantau, Maygashkan and Surenata ranges in western Tyan-Shan system and Nuratau, Aktau and Kuratau ranges and Karatepa and Ziadin-Zirabulak mountains, being the last of Pamir-Alay.

Entering in Western Tyan-Shan system the mountain ranges (Karjantau, Ugam, Pskem, Chatkal, Kuramin) began from Talass Alatau (on border with Kirgizstan), further as fan radiate from here and continuos to north-east to south-west.

The more high point of Talass Alatau is mountain Manas (4482m). The high point of Chatkal range on territory of Uzbekistan - Greater Chimgan peak (3309 m). Between Chatkal and Kuramin ranges located Akhangaran valley.

The apexes of Western Tyan-Shan covered with snow and glaciers.

The Chatkal and Kuramin ranges border on north with Fergana valley. From east she borders with Fergana range, from south with Alay and Turkestan ranges. To north-west from Turkestan range raises the Malguzar range, to south-west Chumkartau range. Only the north slopes of Chumkartau entering on territory of Uzbekistan. The valley of Sanzar river separate the Malguzar mountains from Nuratau mountains. The weak point in this valley named Tamerlan gates.

The Nuratau mountains stretch on 180 km. Their north slope is steep, the south slope is gently sloping. The high point of North part of Nuratau mountains is Khayatbashi apex (2165 m). The south part of Nuratau mountains consists from separate apexes (Aktau, Karatau, Karagatau, Gabduntau).

On the south and as parallel to Turkestan range located Zarafshan range. With self eastern part he entering on territory of Tadjikistan. On south from Zarafshan range located Gissar range and his south-western spurs (Yakkobag, Surkhantau, Kugikantau, Baysuntau, Chakgar and other). Here located the highest point of Uzbekistan - the Khazret Sultan (4643 m).

In western part of Gissar range are two glaciers - Batirbay and Severcev. On south of Uzbekistan along of border with Tadjikistan located Babatag range. The high point - Zarkasa (2292 m). The main features of orography of Uzbekistan connected with features of geological structure of above-mentioned the mountain systems.

Fann Mountains Trekking in Fann Mountains

This bond found expression in these, that between mountain ranges located spacious foothill and intermountain depressions, the large from which is Tashkent-Golodnosteppe, Fergana Zarafshan, Kashkadarya and Surkhandarya.

Please note that Uzbekistan's fourthousanders (Uzbekistan's Mountain Peaks, which are above four thousands meters high) are located in border areas. For example the Khazret Sultan Peak, the highest point of Uzbekistan (4,643 m), is located on the border between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, in Surkhandarya Province, in the Uzbek part of the Gissar Range. The Adelung Peak (4,301 m) the highest peak in Pskem Range in extreme north-east of Uzbekistan's Tashkent Province as well as the nearby the Beshtor Peak (4,299 m), located a little further to the south-west in the same range, are situated near to Kyrgyz border. Therefore even local climbers cannot go there without a special permit. Besides, there is no transparent procedure of getting the permits to border areas, which haven't good infrastructure of tourism, into the bargain; therefore organizing of any expedition there takes enormous efforts, time and money. Knowing this most of climbers prefer the Fann mountains near to Uzbekistan with good infrastructure, Asian Patagonia of Pamiro-Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Experienced Climbing in Ala-Archa, Kyrgyzstan or the Chimgan Mountains (both, in winter and in summer) near to Tashkent.

We can offer you very interesting experience of rock climbing in the Chimgan mountains. There are routes of 1B-4B Russian grade. We can provide you with official certificate of successful climbing. We provide gears and can guarantee your success.

The suggested route is a traverse of three peaks (3A by Russian grade): the Greater Chimgan (3309 m), the Kichkina (2879 m) and the Aukashka (3099 m). It will take 4-5 days. Magnificent landscapes and challenge rock climbing. You can see a picture of proposed route below.


West Tien-Shan Mountains Map
 Uzbekistan Mountain Climbing Chimgan Mountains Trekking Chimgan Photos

Suggested route. Traverse of three peaks

 

Day 1 Transfer from Tashkent to Beldersay (80 km, 2 hrs.). Walking along the gorge of the Beldersay River to the Chet-Kumbel Pass (1880 m). Overnight stay in tents on the picturesque glade. Camp 1.

Day 2 Walking along the good path to the upper Beldersay river. Ascend to the Kumbel Pass (2550 m). Climbing along the southern slopes to the Greater Chimgan Peak (3,309 m), descent to the Komsomolec Pass (2700 m). Camp 2.

Day 3 Climbing to the Kichkina (2879 m) and the Aukashka (3099 m) Peaks. Magnificent landscapes and challenge rock climbing. Return to Camp 2

Day 4 Descending from the Komsomolec pass to the gorge of the Mazarsay River. Hiking to the place called "Vodoprovod". Camp 3 near the spring

Day 5 Descending to the gorge of Gulkamsay river. Visiting the Gulkam canyon. In the afternoon passing through the Pesocniy pass (1,832 m) to the valley of Chimgansay river. Collected by car. Return to Tashkent.


See the map ...


Trek Price Per Person
Individual: US$ 300
2 Pax: US$ 163
3, 7, 12 Pax : US$ 120
4-5 Pax: US$ 110
6 Pax: US$ 138
8-10 Pax: US$ 110
11 Pax: US$ 130

Transportation Tashkent-Chingan-Tashkent isn't Included. Personal Equipment isn't Included. Mountain guide service - included. Guide/Climber Ratio: 1:5 maximum limit. The rent of the tents is included for all period of expedition. Food, kitchen and climbing gears - included. Porter service is available for an additional payment ($20/day).
The price does not include: personal travel insurance; personal equipment, alcohol, personal expenses.


 
Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks  Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks

Uzbekistan Mountains near to Tashkent


Chimgan Mountains

The Chimgan Mountains are invariably attractive for mountaineers. The wide variety of Chimgan and its surroundings allows the activity in all kinds of mountaineering and landscape tourism. Mountains (Small and Greater Chimgan Peaks - 3,309 m) of Chatkal range, plateaus, the Black Waterfall (40 m) at the lower part of Greater Chimgan Peak, Gulkam and Novotasha waterfalls, attract a lot of tourists from Uzbekistan and abroad.

Chimgan Mountains Trekking Chimgan Photos West Tien-Shan Mountains Map


Ugam & Karjantau ridges

Another attractive place for mountaineering is situated on Ugam ridge and on the southern; slopes of the Karjantau ridge of the Western Tyan-Shan system.

 

There are following natural sites, which are of interest of mountaineers in area of Ugam & Karjantau ridges:

Peak Mingbulak (2,628 m) - the highest peak of the Karjantau ridge.

Qizilsuv waterfalls - the pictorial cascades that flow at the sinuous river gorges of Qizilsuv Mountain River.

Loquacious cave is located on plateau Ghiza, 20 km from village Humsan, in a funnel-shaped hollow. On the bottom of the hollow, in the exposure of grey limestone, there is a 1x1 m rectangular aperture transforming to a 1.5 m high sloping tunnel. Its floor is covered with lumps, ceiling being arcaded. This tunnel is 20 m long and leads to the inner larger part of the cave. A ladder is needed in order to proceed into the cave as there is a 6 m high prominence. Then the floor levels out, height reaching 20-30 m. The cave is so named due to a streamlet flowing through it.

Arkutsay exposure of loess stratum. The site is 3 km west of Humsan, on the right bank of the Ugam River. Section of the formation represents the wall of a small landslide breakaway and is a stratum of interstratifying loess-like loams of Quaternary and fossil soils horizons. The section is unique as it exposes more than 80 m thick deposition of rocks.

Kyrk-Kokyl waterfall (in Uzbek Kyrk-Kokyl means 40 plaits) pictorial waterfall at Pustonlyk confluent of Ugam River, 9 km from Humsan village.

Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks  Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks

Forms of mountain climbing applicable in Uzbekistan Mountains

Rock climbing: Ascending rock formations, often using climbing shoes and a chalk bag. Equipment such as ropes, bolts, nuts, hexes and camming devices are normally employed, either as a safeguard or for artificial aid.

 

Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up or across natural rock formations with the goal of reaching the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route. Rock climbing is similar to scrambling (another activity involving the scaling of hills and similar formations), but climbing is generally differentiated by its need for the use of the climber's hands to hold his or her own weight and not just provide balance.

 

Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility, and balance along with his or her mental control. It can be a dangerous sport and knowledge of proper climbing techniques and usage of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes.

Tien-Shan Trekking - Trekking in the Tien Shan Mountains


Free climbing
is climbing without the use of pre-set belays. One person (the leader) will start the climb carrying one end of the rope and will gradually attach it to additional anchors as he or she climbs, thereby establishing a belay system that progresses with the climb. Subtypes of free climbing are trad climbing and sport climbing.

 

Top roping is climbing with the protection of a rope that's already suspended through an anchor at the top of a route. A belayer controls the rope, keeping it taut, and prevents long falls.

 

Ice climbing: Ascending ice or hard snow formations using special equipment designed for the purpose, usually ice axes and crampons. Protective equipment is similar to rock climbing, although protective devices are different (ice screws, snow wedges).

Mixed climbing a combination of ice and rock climbing. Often involving specialized ice climbing slippers and specialized ice tools.

 

Scrambling (non-technical rock climbing also known as alpine scrambling) is a method of ascending rocky faces and ridges. It is a term that lies somewhere between hillwalking and rock climbing.

 

Note: You can request us to prepare a route for you, which include any kind of alpine climbing listed above.
 

Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks  Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks


Mountain Safety

As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snows weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7 to 10C (45 to 50F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.

Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks  Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks Ascending Uzbekistan Mountain peaks


Sources:
http://www.parus87.com/mountain_climbers.htm
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock_climbing



 
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