Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition. Khan Tengry Peak Climbing

Contents Key Information Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7,010 m) Route Description Itinerary Costs and other details Your guides Mountain Safety Helicopter flights timetable for 2010

Key Information

Khan-Tengri Peak Expedition (7,010 m)

Khan Tengri is a massive marble pyramid, covered in snow and ice. At sunset the marble glows red, giving it the Kazakh name "Kan Tau" (blood mountain). Located just across the South Ingelchek (or Inylchek) glacier, 16 km north of the Pobeda Peak (Jengish Chokusu), Khan Tengri was originally thought to be the highest peak in the Tien Shan because of its dramatic, steep shape, compared to the massive bulk of Pobeda Peak. This perception was probably also due to Khan Tengri's visibility across the plains of southern Kazakhstan while Jengish Chokusu remains out of view of civilization.

Khan Tengri (Uighur, translated as "Lord of the spirits", or "Lord of the sky"; or Turkic translated as "Ruler of Skies", "Ruler Tengri") is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is 6,995 m (22,949 ft), but its glacial cap rises to 7,010 m (22,999 ft). For this reason, in mountaineering circles, including for the Soviet Snow Leopard award criteria, it is considered a 7000-metre peak. It is also known as Khan Tangiri Shyngy, Kan-Too Chokusu, Pik Khan-Tengry, and Hantengri Feng.

Khan Tengri is the second-highest mountain in the Tian Shan, surpassed only by Jengish Chokusu (formerly known as Peak Pobeda) (7,439 m). Khan Tengri is the highest point in Kazakhstan and the third-highest peak in Kyrgyzstan, after the Pobeda Peak (7,439 m) and the Lenin Peak (7,134 m). It is also the world's most northern 7000 m peak, notable because peaks of high latitude have a shorter climbing season, generally more severe weather and thinner air.

Khan-Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams.

We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 camps will be used to climb Khan-Tengri.

Route description

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward 'scrambling' for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snowcaves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepens. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snowcaves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Itinerary

Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. Our expedition equipment and food will have to be carried up over a period of time and several climbs to each camp. This routine, of climbing high and sleeping low before occupying each camp, will also provide essential acclimatization. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. The expedition guide will work with the primary objective of getting as many people to the top as possible, rather than adhering to any previously laid down itinerary.

Costs and other details

Cost of full package for 2010 year is: 1200 Euro per person

• meeting/seeing-off at Airport in Bishkek or Almaty;

• transfer Airport in Bishkek/Almaty – hotel - Airport in Bishkek/Almaty;

• transfer Bishkek/Almaty to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back;

• helicopter flight to BC and back;

• unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back

• accommodation at hotels in Bishkek/Almaty breakfast included;

• accommodation at the Karkara camp, full boarding;

• accommodation and 3 times a day boarding at BC “ South Inilchek “;

• free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “ South Inylchek “;

• consultancy service of local guide;

• consultancy of doctor;

• registration with local Rescue Party;

• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;

• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;

• rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents;

• usage of fixed ropes on the route;

• change of air-flight and railway tickets;

• frontier zone permit;

• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed)

•  The cost of Kyrgyz visa
•  International flight
•  All optional deviations from the main itinerary
•  Beverages and meals not included in main menu
•  All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
•  The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
•  The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending

Cost of small package for 2010 year is 800 Euro per person

Small package includes:

• helicopter hop to BC and back with personal load up to 30kg included (overweight is charges separately at 3 euro per each extra kilo);

• consultancy service of local guide;

• consultancy of doctor;

• registration with local Rescue Party;

• ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC;

• usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;

• frontier zone permit;

• official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan.

List of items, which will be of use:

1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff  

We offer special discount for groups:

For the group of 6 pax – 6 th person – 50% discount
For the group of 10 pax – 10 th person- free of charge

Significant discount under the ClimberCA sponsorship is available if you support our Climbing Partners Program at your expense. Interested? Then contact us for more information ... your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru

Helicopter flights timetable for 2010:

Month	Date
July	3, 10, 17, 19, 24, 26, 31
August	2, 7, 9, 14, 16, 21, 23, 28

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Your guides

We recommend your group to be accompanied from Uzbekistan by one or more Mountain Guides of ClimberCA team, working under the direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin, who 30.05.2004 reached the summit of Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face; 22.08.2007 reached the summit of K2 (Chogori) along the center of the Western face – abrupt rocky bastion etc ... and what is symbolical - made the first ascent along Khan Tengri North Face Center, in two-man team, alpine style, for 8 days in 2005.

For further information and booking please e-mail us
your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru

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Mountain Safety

As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.

Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.

Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.

Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.

Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.

Sources:
Khan Tengri. (2010, January 7). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 12:53, January 26, 2010, from http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Khan_Tengri&oldid=336310337
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html